On The Menu – Walnut Crusted Chicken
Walnut Crusted Chicken…
There’s a moment every fall in the northern Sacramento Valley when the walnut orchards announce themselves. The shakers move in, massive machines that grab a tree trunk and shudder it into submission in a matter of seconds, and just like that, an entire season’s worth of work lands on the orchard floor.
It’s quick, dramatic, a little violent – and oddly satisfying to watch.
October in Tehama County smells like earth and walnut husks, and if you’ve never caught that scent, you’re missing one of the more natural aromas the season has to offer.
The walnut has deep roots in this neck of the woods. Spanish missionaries introduced the English walnut, despite the name (it’s of Persian origin), to California in the late 18th century. By the mid-1800s, farmers were figuring out what the climate already knew: Long, hot summers, cool autumn nights, and rich alluvial soil from the Sacramento River system add up to near-perfect walnut country. Red Bluff became a regional hub as orchards spread across the Tehama County valley floor, and the early 20th century brought a full-blown boom.
The secret ingredient wasn’t soil or water. It was the railroad.
Once refrigerated rail cars made it practical to move agricultural products east, Sacramento Valley growers suddenly had Chicago and New York at the other end of the tracks. Walnuts, which dry and ship better than almost anything else coming off a California tree, were perfectly positioned. Growers in Tehama County converted grazing land and grain fields to orchards, betting on a crop that, once established, could produce for half a century or more. Some of those old-growth trees are still out there.
Today, not much has changed about the walnut’s reputation, though the varieties have. Late-harvesting, thin-shelled varieties such as Franquette and Hartley dominated the old orchards. The modern Sacramento Valley has largely shifted to the Chandler, a UC Davis variety developed in the 1970s. These walnuts produce larger, lighter-colored kernels with a milder flavor, and yield more meat per nut than older varieties.
October still belongs to the harvest, and for a brief, wonderful window, fresh “wet” walnuts appear at farmstands and orchards — milkier, less bitter, and far more perishable than those found on a grocery shelf.
Walnut-crusted chicken is the kind of dish that sounds fancy, but cooks like a weeknight staple once you’ve made it. The walnuts do real work here. They’re not a garnish or an afterthought, but the crust itself, finely chopped and mixed with flour, salt, and pepper, pressing into mustard-and-herb-marinated chicken before a quick sear and a finish in a hot oven.
The result is a crust that’s crunchy, subtly rich, and earthy in a way that breadcrumbs aren’t. It pairs nicely with steamed vegetables, rice, or a simple salad, something bright to balance the walnut’s depth.
Plan ahead: The chicken marinates for at least four hours, ideally overnight. That’s not a burden so much as an invitation to get organized and let the refrigerator do the heavy lifting while you think about how fortunate it is to live somewhere with this much good food just down the road.•
Walnut Crusted Chicken
Servings: 4
Prep Time: 4 hours, 30 minutes (includes marinating)
Cook Time: 25 minutes
Total Time: 4 hours, 50 minutes
Ingredients
- 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus 1 more T for pan
- 2-3 T Dijon mustard
- ¼ cup dry white wine (or chicken broth)
- 3 garlic cloves, minced
- 1 tsp. dried thyme
- 1.5 lbs. boneless, skinless chicken thighs or breasts
- 1½ cups very finely chopped walnuts
- ¾ cup all-purpose flour
- 1 tsp. salt
- ½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
- Chopped fresh parsley, for garnish (optional)
Directions
Step 1: Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.
Step 2: In a large bowl, whisk together the olive oil, mustard, white wine, garlic, and dried thyme. Add the chicken, turning to coat. Cover tightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight.
Step 3: In a shallow dish, such as a 9-inch square baking pan, combine the walnuts, flour, salt and pepper. Remove the chicken, shake off any excess marinade, and dip both sides in walnut mixture until generously coated.
Step 4: Heat 1 T of olive oil in an oven-safe skillet (preferably cast iron) over medium heat. Add the chicken and sear for 2 minutes, 1 minute per side. Transfer skillet to the oven and bake, loosely covered with aluminum foil, for 15–20 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through. (Chicken is considered done when the center of the thickest part reaches at least 165 degrees.)
Article and Recipe Written by:
Al Olson loves culinary arts, adult beverages and hiking in the North State wilderness. You may find him soaking up the scenery at one of our area’s many state or national parks or sitting in a barstool sipping a cold locally brewed craft beer.
