On the Menu – September in a Bowl

Grilled Corn Chowder…

There’s a week — maybe two — when the corn at the Redding farmers market — or in your own backyard garden — is so delicious it almost doesn’t need anything done to it. The husks are tight, the silk is fresh, and when you snap a kernel off the cob and taste it raw, it’s noticeably sweeter. That window is September, and this chowder is built around it.
The move that sets this recipe apart from a standard corn chowder is grilling the corn. Grilling the cobs over high heat until they char in spots transforms the corn’s sweetness into something deeper and slightly smoky, which plays beautifully against the cream’s richness. It takes about 10 minutes and changes everything.
From there, the technique is straightforward but worth following closely. After you cut the kernels free, scrape the cob with the back of your knife. That cloudy, starchy liquid that runs out is liquid gold — it thickens the broth naturally and carries an intense corn flavor no amount of extra cream can replicate.
The other moment that makes or breaks the chowder is the blend. Too aggressive, and you’ve got a bisque; too cautious, and it’s thin and watery. What you’re after is somewhere in between — creamy enough to coat a spoon, yet chunky enough to still get bites of potato and corn.
Sweet summer corn, charred on the grill for smoky depth, blended into a rich, creamy broth with potatoes and a touch of heat. Peak September in a bowl. •

Grilled Corn Chowder

Ingredients:

• 6 ears of fresh corn, husked
• 1 lb. (3-4 medium) Yukon Gold potatoes, diced ½ inch
• 1 yellow onion, diced
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 jalapeño, seeded and minced (optional)
• 3 T unsalted butter
• 3 T all-purpose flour
• 4 cups (2 14.5-oz. cans) vegetable broth
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 2 tsp. smoked paprika
• 2 tsp. salt
• 2 tsp. black pepper
• 3 T olive oil
• 3 T fresh chives or green onion, sliced (for serving)
• 4 oz. crispy bacon or smoked cheddar (optional topping)

Directions:

Step 1: Heat the grill (or a cast-iron grill pan) to high. Brush ears of corn lightly with olive oil. Grill, turning occasionally, until nicely charred in spots all around. (Don’t be shy about the char, that’s your flavor.) Let cool for about 10 minutes. Cut kernels off the cob. Stand each cob in a large bowl and run the knife straight down. Scrape the cobs with the back of a butter knife to extract the milky liquid, then add it to the bowl.

Step 2: Melt unsalted butter in a large heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add  onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent, about 8 minutes. Add  garlic and jalapeño (optional). Cook for another 2 minutes until fragrant.

Step 3: Sprinkle flour over the onion mixture and stir for 1–2 minutes. Pour vegetable broth gradually, stirring as you go to avoid lumps. Add diced Yukon gold potatoes, smoked paprika, salt and black pepper. Bring to a gentle boil.

Step 4: Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until the potatoes are completely tender when pierced with a fork, about 15 minutes. Add about two-thirds of the corn kernels to the pot.

Step 5: Use an immersion blender to partially blend the soup right in the pot. You want it creamy but still chunky, so about 8-10 short pulses. Alternatively, ladle about half the soup into a blender, blend until smooth, then stir it back in. Either way, leave plenty of texture.

Step 6: Stir in heavy cream and the remaining corn kernels. Turn to medium-low heat for 5 minutes. The chowder should be thick, creamy, and just a little smoky.

Step 7: Ladle into bowls and top with fresh chives or green onion. Optional: Add crispy bacon and/or smoked cheddar.

Article and Recipe Written By:
Al Olson loves culinary arts, adult beverages and hiking in the North State wilderness. You may find him soaking up the scenery at one of our area’s many state or national parks or sitting in a barstool sipping a cold locally brewed craft beer.